18th March 2011
This morning we sadly said “goodbye” to Costa Rica and “hello” to Havana, Cuba.
Havana is the capital city, major port, and leading commercial centre of Cuba. The city, with approximately 2.1 million inhabitants is one of the 15 Cuban provinces and is the largest city in Cuba and the second largest in the Caribbean region. The city extends mostly westward and southward from the bay, which is entered through a narrow inlet and which divides into three main harbours: Marimelena, Guanabacoa, and Atarés.
Present day Havana is the center of the Cuban government, and various ministries and headquarters of businesses are based there.
Habana Vieja, the Old Town, sits on the western side of the harbour in an area once bounded by 17th century city walls. In 1863 these walls were demolished and the city spilled west into Centro Habana. West of Calzada de Infante lays Vedado that developed after independence in 1902.
Centrally located Habana Vieja is the city’s atmospheric historical masterpiece and Vedado (where our hotel is situated) is the once most notorious Mafia run district.
On arrival at Jose Marti International Airport we cleared customs then took a taxi to our accommodation at the St John’s Hotel Vedado.
Once we had booked in we headed out to explore the streets, our first stop being Hotel Nacional de Cuba....an art deco national monument and one of Havana’s ‘postcard’ sights. It’s had several ’highs’ in its life, one of which was in 1946 when US mobsters Lanksy & Luicano used it to host the largest ever get together of the North American Mafia who gathered her under the guise of a Frank Sinatra concert.
From the hotel we continues to walk on along some of the back streets going passed once lavish art deco buildings and many 1950’s American cars.
We stopped off at the supermarket to get supplies for dinner before returning to the hotel. This was quite an experience as the supermarket shelves were very sparse. There was mostly tinned goods, biscuits, oil, liquor, pasta, some yoghurt and processed meats e.g. ham, luncheon......no fresh fruit, vegetables fresh meat or cheeses.
19th March 2011
Following breakfast this morning Colin and I joined a three hour bus tour of Havana. Highlights of the tour included:-
Havana is the capital city, major port, and leading commercial centre of Cuba. The city, with approximately 2.1 million inhabitants is one of the 15 Cuban provinces and is the largest city in Cuba and the second largest in the Caribbean region. The city extends mostly westward and southward from the bay, which is entered through a narrow inlet and which divides into three main harbours: Marimelena, Guanabacoa, and Atarés.
Present day Havana is the center of the Cuban government, and various ministries and headquarters of businesses are based there.
Habana Vieja, the Old Town, sits on the western side of the harbour in an area once bounded by 17th century city walls. In 1863 these walls were demolished and the city spilled west into Centro Habana. West of Calzada de Infante lays Vedado that developed after independence in 1902.
Centrally located Habana Vieja is the city’s atmospheric historical masterpiece and Vedado (where our hotel is situated) is the once most notorious Mafia run district.
On arrival at Jose Marti International Airport we cleared customs then took a taxi to our accommodation at the St John’s Hotel Vedado.
Once we had booked in we headed out to explore the streets, our first stop being Hotel Nacional de Cuba....an art deco national monument and one of Havana’s ‘postcard’ sights. It’s had several ’highs’ in its life, one of which was in 1946 when US mobsters Lanksy & Luicano used it to host the largest ever get together of the North American Mafia who gathered her under the guise of a Frank Sinatra concert.
From the hotel we continues to walk on along some of the back streets going passed once lavish art deco buildings and many 1950’s American cars.
We stopped off at the supermarket to get supplies for dinner before returning to the hotel. This was quite an experience as the supermarket shelves were very sparse. There was mostly tinned goods, biscuits, oil, liquor, pasta, some yoghurt and processed meats e.g. ham, luncheon......no fresh fruit, vegetables fresh meat or cheeses.
19th March 2011
Following breakfast this morning Colin and I joined a three hour bus tour of Havana. Highlights of the tour included:-
- Plaza de la Revolucion – base of the Cuban government and a place where large scale political rallies are held. It is here that the Memorial a Jose Marti can be found. It is Havana’s tallest structure at 138.5m and houses a museum.
- Romeo y Juliet Cigar Factory – a place where cigars are manufactured, packed and sold.
- Flea Market – situated in an old warehouse near the cruise ferry terminal. The market sells paintings, souvenirs, CD’s, clothing, jewellery and cigars.
- Plaza de Armas – Havana’s oldest square where a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes can be found. He was the man who set Cuba on the road to independence in 1868.
- Castillo de la Real Fuerza – the oldest existing fort in America’s built between 1558 & 1577.
- Hotel Inglaterra – Havana’s oldest hotel opened in 1856.
- Edificio Bacardi – a beautiful art deco building finished in 1929 with lavish furnishings inside
- Buildings ranging from intricate baroque to glitzy art deco.
- Gran Teatro de la Havana - famous particularly for the acclaimed National Ballet of Cuba, it sometimes hosts performances by the National Opera. The theater is also known as concert hall, Garcia Lorca, the biggest in Cuba.
Late afternoon we walked back to the hotel via El Malecon Habanero, the 8 km avenue that runs beside the seawall along the north shore of Havana, from Habana Vieja to the Almendares River. It forms the northern boundary of Old Havana, Centro Habana and Vedado.
At 7.00 pm we met our new leader Intrepid Trip, Romey and our three other fellow travellers (two from the UK & one from Australia). The six of us all went out to a local restaurant for dinner.
20th March
Today our small group of six departed from Havana airport at 11.15 am on a flight bound for Baracoa, a two hour journey.
Baracoa is a municipality and city in Guantanamo Province near the eastern tip of Cuba. It was founded by the first governor of Cuba, the Spanish conquistador Diego Velazquez in 1511. It is the oldest Spanish settlement in Cuba and was its first capital and is located where Christopher Columbus landed in Cuba on his first voyage.
Baracoa lies on the Bay of Honey (Bahía de Miel) and is surrounded by a wide mountain range, which causes it to be quite isolated, apart from a single mountain road built in the 1960s.
The main products in the region are banana, coconut and cacao.......it is Cuba's main chocolate manufacturing area and is famous for its white chocolate sold in round, flat cakes encased in palm bark. Also very popular is the cucurucho, ambrosia of honey, coconut, nuts and fresh seasonal fruit served in cones of palm bark.
On arrival at Baracoa airport we collected our luggage then proceeded by taxi to our casas particulars (private rooms in family orientated establishments), accommodation for the next three nights.
William, our host greeted us with some good Cuban coffee before we headed off to lunch at Paladar El Colonial, a popular local restaurant that serves up delicious octopus.
Late afternoon we took a walk around the central area of Baracoa and discovered that its cobblestone streets are lined with one-story buildings whose peeling, carnival coloured paint jobs and weathered tile roofs add charm to the town.
Along the eastern edge of the village runs the Malecón, a miniature of Havana’s seaside promenade, which ends in a park dedicated to Christopher Columbus.
To the north-west of town lie the tranquil beaches Playa Maguana and Playa Nibujón. Playa Maguana is the tourist beach, featuring restaurant and bar service, while the Playa Nibujón is more rustic and frequented by the locals.
The six of us ate a delicious buffet dinner at Williams tonight. All food was cooked by William who has been trained by the famous Italian chef Peppe Zullo. Peppe comes to William’s homestay several times a year to relax and enjoy the tranquility of the area.
21st March
The day started out as being quite overcast and grey but by the time the six of us piled into the 50’s Willy’s Jeep the sun was pecking through the clouds.
Our first stop on Romey’s personalised tour was at a private home where we were greeted by an elderly woman who makes chocolate from cocao seeds. We spent an hour with her as she explained the full process of making the bean into chocolate. Her husband gave us a demonstration of grinding the cocao bean into a fine powder.
We continued to travel along the coast passing by several small villages until we came to where the Yumuri River meets the sea and there we boarded a small rowboat, which took us 500 metres up the river before being dropped off. From this point we walked for about 20 minutes along the canyon floor to a secluded swimming hole where we spent two hours relaxing on a fine shingle peninsular where we admired the natural beauty of the area, took photos of the tocororo bird (Cuba’s national bird) and enjoyed the tranquility.
Mid afternoon we returned to our Willy’s Jeep and drove back to Baracoa where the rest of the day was spent catching up on washing, updating the diary and downloading and naming photos.
Tonight we ate at a restaurant that belongs to a poet.
22nd March
At mid morning this morning Rachel, Clare, Susy, Romey, William, William’s son and I got into the Willy’s Jeep and we all headed 5 kms out of town to Finca Duaba, a countryside farm lying off the road to Moa.
Finca Duaba is a verdant farm surrounded with profuse tropical plants and embellished a short Cacao (cocoa) trail that explains the importance of this plant and how it is farmed extensively in this part of Cuba.
Around midday we left the farm and travelled a short distance along the Rio Toa, the third longest river on the north coast of Cuba and the country’s most voluminous.
We stopped at William’s friends place on the Rio Toa where we watched and waited for our lunch to be cooked………a small whole pig on a spit. While we were waited we were entertained by two musicians who played traditional Cuban music. It was a great afternoon and one that everyone thoroughly enjoyed.
Late afternoon we, along with the musicians returned to Baracoa in the back of the Willy’s Jeep singing some of the more well known Cuba songs.
In the evening we wandered along to The Poet’s Restaurant where we spent several hours being entertained by the poet himself. While there we were very privileged to view his private collection of the polimita, Cuba’s endangered land snail. The poet and his family have a breeding programme going to try and increase the polimita population.
23rd March
It is with sadness that our Intrepid group farewell William and his father and board a bus bound for Santiago de Cuba.
While travelling to Santiago we passed within 10 kms of the infamous Guantanamo Bay or Gitmo as the US marines have named it. It was here in 2002 that the US held more than 750 prisoners with suspected Al Queda or Taliban links at the famous Camp Delta without pressing charges. As of 2009 many prisoners had been sent back to their country of origin or convicted and incarcerated in the US………only approximately 240 prisoners remained here with Obama vowing to close the prison within the next few years.
We arrived into Santiago later afternoon and were driven to our casa particulars by a 1950’s Chevy taxi.
Santiago de Cuba is the capital city of Santiago de Cuba Province in the south-eastern area of the island nation of Cuba, some 540 miles (870 km) south-east of the Cuban capital of Havana. It is on a bay connected to the Caribbean Sea and is an important sea port. Historically it has long been the second most important city on the island after Havana, and still remains the second largest.
Surrounded by impressive mountains that link the Sierra Maestra to the sea, Santiago is a city of hills and inclined streets, with numerous places of tourist interest and a history linked to struggles for national independence. It is also a city that brings together people of African and Spanish origin, along with descendants of émigrés from the French West Indies. Thus Santiago is a veritable melting pot whose colorful identify is an outgrowth of its rich human heritage. Renowned for its colorful carnivals featuring Chinese trumpets, French tumbas (a kind of drum) and all sorts of revels, the city is also famous for its people, who are hospitable, cheerful, sensual, and imaginative lovers of life.
Late afternoon Romey conducted an orientation walk of the city’s main attractions, which included:-
At 7.00 pm we met our new leader Intrepid Trip, Romey and our three other fellow travellers (two from the UK & one from Australia). The six of us all went out to a local restaurant for dinner.
20th March
Today our small group of six departed from Havana airport at 11.15 am on a flight bound for Baracoa, a two hour journey.
Baracoa is a municipality and city in Guantanamo Province near the eastern tip of Cuba. It was founded by the first governor of Cuba, the Spanish conquistador Diego Velazquez in 1511. It is the oldest Spanish settlement in Cuba and was its first capital and is located where Christopher Columbus landed in Cuba on his first voyage.
Baracoa lies on the Bay of Honey (Bahía de Miel) and is surrounded by a wide mountain range, which causes it to be quite isolated, apart from a single mountain road built in the 1960s.
The main products in the region are banana, coconut and cacao.......it is Cuba's main chocolate manufacturing area and is famous for its white chocolate sold in round, flat cakes encased in palm bark. Also very popular is the cucurucho, ambrosia of honey, coconut, nuts and fresh seasonal fruit served in cones of palm bark.
On arrival at Baracoa airport we collected our luggage then proceeded by taxi to our casas particulars (private rooms in family orientated establishments), accommodation for the next three nights.
William, our host greeted us with some good Cuban coffee before we headed off to lunch at Paladar El Colonial, a popular local restaurant that serves up delicious octopus.
Late afternoon we took a walk around the central area of Baracoa and discovered that its cobblestone streets are lined with one-story buildings whose peeling, carnival coloured paint jobs and weathered tile roofs add charm to the town.
Along the eastern edge of the village runs the Malecón, a miniature of Havana’s seaside promenade, which ends in a park dedicated to Christopher Columbus.
To the north-west of town lie the tranquil beaches Playa Maguana and Playa Nibujón. Playa Maguana is the tourist beach, featuring restaurant and bar service, while the Playa Nibujón is more rustic and frequented by the locals.
The six of us ate a delicious buffet dinner at Williams tonight. All food was cooked by William who has been trained by the famous Italian chef Peppe Zullo. Peppe comes to William’s homestay several times a year to relax and enjoy the tranquility of the area.
21st March
The day started out as being quite overcast and grey but by the time the six of us piled into the 50’s Willy’s Jeep the sun was pecking through the clouds.
Our first stop on Romey’s personalised tour was at a private home where we were greeted by an elderly woman who makes chocolate from cocao seeds. We spent an hour with her as she explained the full process of making the bean into chocolate. Her husband gave us a demonstration of grinding the cocao bean into a fine powder.
We continued to travel along the coast passing by several small villages until we came to where the Yumuri River meets the sea and there we boarded a small rowboat, which took us 500 metres up the river before being dropped off. From this point we walked for about 20 minutes along the canyon floor to a secluded swimming hole where we spent two hours relaxing on a fine shingle peninsular where we admired the natural beauty of the area, took photos of the tocororo bird (Cuba’s national bird) and enjoyed the tranquility.
Mid afternoon we returned to our Willy’s Jeep and drove back to Baracoa where the rest of the day was spent catching up on washing, updating the diary and downloading and naming photos.
Tonight we ate at a restaurant that belongs to a poet.
22nd March
At mid morning this morning Rachel, Clare, Susy, Romey, William, William’s son and I got into the Willy’s Jeep and we all headed 5 kms out of town to Finca Duaba, a countryside farm lying off the road to Moa.
Finca Duaba is a verdant farm surrounded with profuse tropical plants and embellished a short Cacao (cocoa) trail that explains the importance of this plant and how it is farmed extensively in this part of Cuba.
Around midday we left the farm and travelled a short distance along the Rio Toa, the third longest river on the north coast of Cuba and the country’s most voluminous.
We stopped at William’s friends place on the Rio Toa where we watched and waited for our lunch to be cooked………a small whole pig on a spit. While we were waited we were entertained by two musicians who played traditional Cuban music. It was a great afternoon and one that everyone thoroughly enjoyed.
Late afternoon we, along with the musicians returned to Baracoa in the back of the Willy’s Jeep singing some of the more well known Cuba songs.
In the evening we wandered along to The Poet’s Restaurant where we spent several hours being entertained by the poet himself. While there we were very privileged to view his private collection of the polimita, Cuba’s endangered land snail. The poet and his family have a breeding programme going to try and increase the polimita population.
23rd March
It is with sadness that our Intrepid group farewell William and his father and board a bus bound for Santiago de Cuba.
While travelling to Santiago we passed within 10 kms of the infamous Guantanamo Bay or Gitmo as the US marines have named it. It was here in 2002 that the US held more than 750 prisoners with suspected Al Queda or Taliban links at the famous Camp Delta without pressing charges. As of 2009 many prisoners had been sent back to their country of origin or convicted and incarcerated in the US………only approximately 240 prisoners remained here with Obama vowing to close the prison within the next few years.
We arrived into Santiago later afternoon and were driven to our casa particulars by a 1950’s Chevy taxi.
Santiago de Cuba is the capital city of Santiago de Cuba Province in the south-eastern area of the island nation of Cuba, some 540 miles (870 km) south-east of the Cuban capital of Havana. It is on a bay connected to the Caribbean Sea and is an important sea port. Historically it has long been the second most important city on the island after Havana, and still remains the second largest.
Surrounded by impressive mountains that link the Sierra Maestra to the sea, Santiago is a city of hills and inclined streets, with numerous places of tourist interest and a history linked to struggles for national independence. It is also a city that brings together people of African and Spanish origin, along with descendants of émigrés from the French West Indies. Thus Santiago is a veritable melting pot whose colorful identify is an outgrowth of its rich human heritage. Renowned for its colorful carnivals featuring Chinese trumpets, French tumbas (a kind of drum) and all sorts of revels, the city is also famous for its people, who are hospitable, cheerful, sensual, and imaginative lovers of life.
Late afternoon Romey conducted an orientation walk of the city’s main attractions, which included:-
- Ayuntamiento – where on January 2 1959 Fidel Castro appeared trumpeting the Revolutions triumph.
- Cas de Diego Velazquez – the oldest house standing in Cuba (from 1522) was once the official residence of the island’s first governor, Velazquez but is now a museum.
- Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asucion.
- Museo Municipal Emillo Bacardi Moreau – founded in 1899 by the rum magnate/war hero/city mayor Emillo Bacardi. It is now one of Cuba’s oldest and most eclectic museums.
- Plaza Delores – a former market place but now where many restaurants and cafes can be found.
The walking tour ended at the terrace bar of Hotel Casa Granda. It was here that we watched the sun set over Santiago de Cuba Bay.
In the evening the six of us walked to Calle Heredia, one of the oldest and most sensuous streets in Santiago and where Casa de Trova can be found. Here we spent several hours listening to a live band play Cuban music.
Casa de Trova is a beautiful balconied townhouse redolent of New Orleans’ French quarter that is dedicated to pioneering Cuban trovador Jose ‘Pepe’ Sanchez. It was first opened as a trova (traditional poetic singing/songwriting) house in 1968.
Some of Cuba's most famous musicians, including Compay Segundo, Ibrahim Ferrer and Eliades Ochoa (all of which participated in the Buena Vista Social Club) and trova composer Ñico Saquito (Benito Antonio Fernández Ortiz) were born in the city or in one of the villages surrounding it. They have contributed to the typical, country-like music of the city.
24th March
At 9.00 am this morning the taxi driver (and owner of an immaculately restored 1950’s red and white Chevy car) collected Romey, Clare, Susy, Rachel, Colin and I from our casa particulares and started our personalized tour of Santiago de Cuba. The main highlights of the day included:-
In the evening the six of us walked to Calle Heredia, one of the oldest and most sensuous streets in Santiago and where Casa de Trova can be found. Here we spent several hours listening to a live band play Cuban music.
Casa de Trova is a beautiful balconied townhouse redolent of New Orleans’ French quarter that is dedicated to pioneering Cuban trovador Jose ‘Pepe’ Sanchez. It was first opened as a trova (traditional poetic singing/songwriting) house in 1968.
Some of Cuba's most famous musicians, including Compay Segundo, Ibrahim Ferrer and Eliades Ochoa (all of which participated in the Buena Vista Social Club) and trova composer Ñico Saquito (Benito Antonio Fernández Ortiz) were born in the city or in one of the villages surrounding it. They have contributed to the typical, country-like music of the city.
24th March
At 9.00 am this morning the taxi driver (and owner of an immaculately restored 1950’s red and white Chevy car) collected Romey, Clare, Susy, Rachel, Colin and I from our casa particulares and started our personalized tour of Santiago de Cuba. The main highlights of the day included:-
- Fabrica de Tabacos Cesar Esclante – a cigar factory that produces two famous brands, Romeo y Juliet and Monet Cristo. It was here we were shown the various stages and processes that go into producing this product.
- Cementerio Santa Ifigenia – the most important cemetery in all of Cuba as it holds 90% of Cuba’s national heroes including Emilo Bacardi y Moreau of the famous rum dynasty, the ‘martyrs’ of the 1953 Moncada Barracks attack, Carlos Manuel de Cespedes – the father of Cuban independence and international celebrity come popular musical personality Comapy Segundo of Buena Vista Social Club fame. The highlight of the cemetery was the imposing mausoleum dedicated to national hero Jose Marti.
- Cuartel Moncada Barracks – On July 26 1953 the Cuban Revolution began with an ill prepared attack on Moncada Barracks by a small contingent of rebels led by a group of revolutionaries - led by Fidel Castro, Raúl Castro and Che Guevara. Their attempt was successful and many were jailed for it, but it gained recognition for them and their cause and is considered the first big event in the revolutionary path that ended with Fidel Castro proclaiming the success of the Revolution in 1959 and assuming power.
- Castillo del Morro - the formidable Castillo del Morro is a fortification built in 1638 to guard the Santiago Bay from pirates and other unwelcome visitors. The medieval and Renaissance-style structure, which juts out into the sea on a rocky precipice, includes 5 levels of cells, passageways, drawbridges, cannons and 1.5-meter thick walls.
Mid afternoon our taxi driver took us to a restaurant for lunch overlooking Cayo Granma.
Cayo Granma is a small island near the entrance to Santiago Bay that consists of many red roofed wooden houses, many of which are on stilts above the water, that belong to a traditional fishing community.
We returned late afternoon to the centre of the city….just in time for Colin to get a haircut and shave at the local barber shop.
The evening was spent on the roof top of our casa particulars watching the sunset and discussing our busy day.
Notable natives and residents of Santiago de Cuba include:-
Cayo Granma is a small island near the entrance to Santiago Bay that consists of many red roofed wooden houses, many of which are on stilts above the water, that belong to a traditional fishing community.
We returned late afternoon to the centre of the city….just in time for Colin to get a haircut and shave at the local barber shop.
The evening was spent on the roof top of our casa particulars watching the sunset and discussing our busy day.
Notable natives and residents of Santiago de Cuba include:-
- Desi Arnaz - television/film actor, producer and bandleader
- Orestes Destrade -professional baseball Player
- Emilio Estefan - music producer and husband of singer Gloria Estefan
- Alberto Juantorena - Olympic gold medalist, 1976 Olympics
- Faizon Love - television/film actor, comedian
- Konnan - professional wrestler
- La Lupe - salsa singer
- Rita Marley- singer and wife of reggae singer Bob Marley
- Ñico Saquito (Benito Antonio Fernández Ortiz) - musician and trova composer
- Compay Segundo - musician
25th March
Camagüey is a city and municipality in central Cuba and is the nation's third largest city.
After almost continuous attacks from pirates the original city was moved inland in 1528 and was rebuilt with a confusing lay-out of short, narrow, winding alleys that made it easier to defend from any raiders and are more reminiscent of a Moroccan medina than the geometric grids of Lima or Mexico City.
The symbol of the city of Camagüey is the clay pot or tinajón, used to capture rain water to be used later. Clay pots of all shapes and sizes are literally everywhere and local legend has it that if you drink water from a girl's personal tinajón, you will fall in love with the girl and never leave her.
The city has a rich tradition of cultural and technological leadership with Cuba......it is the birthplace of poet laureate Nicholas Guillen and home of the Ballet de Camaguey, the second most important dance company in Cuba. Cuba’s first radio and television emissions were broadcast from here and the country’s first airport and commercial flights were planned and executed from here.
After the Communist Revolution, Camagüey was well-known for being the site of a UMAP (Military Production Aid Unit) forced labor camp (established in 1965) for political dissidents, homosexuals, and Jehova's Witnesses, amongst others.
In July 2008, the old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After booking into the Hotel Isla de Cuba we did a quick orientation walk of the area before sitting down to lunch at a nearby pizzeria.
At 5.30 p.m. we began our first 1 hour salsa lesson.
26th March
Camagüey is a city and municipality in central Cuba and is the nation's third largest city.
After almost continuous attacks from pirates the original city was moved inland in 1528 and was rebuilt with a confusing lay-out of short, narrow, winding alleys that made it easier to defend from any raiders and are more reminiscent of a Moroccan medina than the geometric grids of Lima or Mexico City.
The symbol of the city of Camagüey is the clay pot or tinajón, used to capture rain water to be used later. Clay pots of all shapes and sizes are literally everywhere and local legend has it that if you drink water from a girl's personal tinajón, you will fall in love with the girl and never leave her.
The city has a rich tradition of cultural and technological leadership with Cuba......it is the birthplace of poet laureate Nicholas Guillen and home of the Ballet de Camaguey, the second most important dance company in Cuba. Cuba’s first radio and television emissions were broadcast from here and the country’s first airport and commercial flights were planned and executed from here.
After the Communist Revolution, Camagüey was well-known for being the site of a UMAP (Military Production Aid Unit) forced labor camp (established in 1965) for political dissidents, homosexuals, and Jehova's Witnesses, amongst others.
In July 2008, the old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After booking into the Hotel Isla de Cuba we did a quick orientation walk of the area before sitting down to lunch at a nearby pizzeria.
At 5.30 p.m. we began our first 1 hour salsa lesson.
26th March
It was a beautiful day in Camaguey this morning, an ideal morning for walking the city and discovering its attractions so at 9.30 am we headed off with our guide Raymond. The places of interest we visited included:-
- Plaza San Juan De Dios - The totally restored San Juan de Dios Square is not only a quiet, vivid spot, but also a gem of Colonial Architecture. There are some 18th-century pastel buildings around the square, two of which are restaurants now. One of the sides is completely occupied by important buildings that include a church and a former hospital that now houses the Provincial Direction of Heritage and the Office of the Historian of the City. It was at Plaza San Juan De Dios that we visited the working studio of Joel Jover and his wife IIeana Sanchez, both accomplished contemporary artists. Later in the tour we visited the artists’ private home, which is filled with their art work and memorabilia in Parque Ignacio Agramonte.
- Plaza Del Carmen – Camaguey’s least visited square and prettiest with its cobbled central space infused with giant tinajones, atmospheric lamps and unique life sized sculptures of Camagueyanas going about their daily business. The sculptures were designed by well known artist Martha Jimenez Perez whose gallery we also visited.
- Mercado Agropecuario El Rio – Camaguey’s farmers market where farmers are allowed to sell their produce after they have met the quota they have to sell to the state. The market had a great variety of tropical fruit, vegetables and herbs.
- Parque Ignacio Agramonte - Dominating the park, the former Plaza de Armas, is an equestrian statue of Ignacio Agramonte, a Cuban Independence hero born in this city. Royal Palms stand at the four corners of this square, planted in memory of a group of nationalists executed here in February, 1851.
There are many buildings of interest around the square including Palacio Collado (1942), Bar El Cambio (1909), a colonial building housing La Volanta Restaurant, the Casa de la Trova Patricio Ballagas, the Biblioteca Julio Antonio Mella, and the cathedral.
After the tour finished we had a late lunch then returned to the hotel to relax as it was too hot to be anywhere else.
In the evening we dined at a very local restaurant that served cheap Cuban food (beans, rice, chicken, pork, plantain etc) and where very few tourists are seen in.
27th March
At 9.30 this morning we left Camaguey by minibus to travel to Trinidad, a journey of approximately 5 hours. However on the outskirts of Camaguey Romey took us to a “Gaudi” style home, which is believed to have been owned by a man who once worked for Gaudi in Barcelona as it has very similar architecture to Gaudi’s buildings.
After leaving the “Gaudi” house we travelled about 20 minutes to Romey’s farm where we had a short break. There we walked around his small farm and were shown the piggery where two sows had given birth to 17 piglets each the night before and the hens which are used for breeding.
We arrived at our casa particulars around 3.00 p.m. and half an hour later headed out on a short orientation walk around what is said to be ‘the crown jewel of Cuba’s colonial cities’, Trinidad.
Trinidad is a town in the province of Sancti Spíritus, central Cuba. It was founded on December 23, 1514 by Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar.
In the 1800’s French refugees fleeing a slave revolt in Haiti landed here en masse and brought with them sugar cane cultivation. The new residents settled and farmed in the Valle de Los Ingenios and as a result vast wealth flowed into the local economy from sugar cane cultivation (the area produced 1/3 of the country’s sugar at one point). The sugar boom was terminated by two wars of independence however the wealth generated by the industry remains visible in the town’s once grand mansions, colourful pastel public buildings, elaborate wrought iron grill work and cobble stoned streets.
Trinidad is considered to be one of the best preserved cities in the Caribbean.
Together with the nearby Valle de los Ingenios, Trinidad has been one of UNESCOs World Heritage sites since 1988. The valley has around 70 long-standing sugar mills which are a reminder of the importance of sugar to the Cuban economy over the centuries.
In Trinidad all roads lead to Plaza Mayor, the town’s main square located at the heart of the casco historico and this was one of the first stops on our orientation walk.
There are 4 impressive buildings that surround Plaza Mayor......Palacio Brunet, a two story building dating back to 1741 and housing the Museo Romantico, Museo de Arquitectura Colonial, once the residence of the wealthy Iznaga family and Museo de la Lucha Contra Los Bandidos (Museum of the Fight Against Outlaws), once a convent but all that remains now are the tower and church.
After about an hour of walking around the historic centre we all decided it was far too hot to continue so returned to our casa particulares for a rest before dinner.
In the evening we went to Disco Ayala......a disco in a cave that once was once used as a wartime hospital, where we danced to Cuban music.
28th March
This morning Romey, Rachel, Colin and I visited the Trinidad National Park while Clare & Susy had a morning in town exploring the handicraft market.
From the National Park entrance the four of us walked an hour through pretty forest to Salto Javiro, a beautiful secluded waterfall in the foot hills of the Sierra Escambray. Enroute we spotted a variety of native birds, crossed some rocky terrain and several foot bridges before arriving at the natural deep pool of the waterfall where we swam for half an hour.
Around midday we returned to the park entrance where we caught a taxi to Playa Ancon to meet up with Susy & Clare.
Playa Ancon is a 4 km long beach with sugary white sand, aqua blue waters fringed with palm trees. It is touted as being the finest arc of sand of Cuba’s south coast and so it was here that we spent the afternoon swimming, reading, sleeping and enjoying the sunny rays from the Cuban sun.
In the evening we moved to a more secluded part of Playa Ancon where Romey had organised for our casa particulares to deliver a freshly cooked fish meal to us while sitting around a bonfire, listening to our very own Cuban band play their repertoire of songs and watching the sun set.
When we returned to our accommodation (in a 1950’s Chevy) we all agreed that it had been an absolutely unforgettable, fabulous day.
29th March
It was a real treat to be able to sit on the rooftop of our casa particulares this morning and have breakfast, especially as the weather was so beautiful.
Mid morning Colin and I visited the internet cafe to clear emails and just check that all was well at home.
Late morning our group headed out to the seaside village of La Boca where we meet a guide to take us snorkeling.
We swam about 30 metres offshore and were able to see a great variety of fish in the crystal clear conditions. After about 45 minutes we returned to shore for a spot of reading and relaxation however after a short rest Claire was back in the water to do an 8 metre dive.
We returned to Trinidad early afternoon and decided to spend the rest of the day chilling as it was so very hot.
For dinner this evening we dined at a newly opened restaurant called....... The interior of this restaurant was amazing with its old crystal chandeliers, elaborate candelabras, antique Cuban furniture and quirky decorations throughout.
30th March
It was with much regret that we farewelled Trinidad, loaded our bags into the minivan and headed along the scenic Caribbean coast to Cienfuegas, affectionately known as “the Pearl of the South”.
Cienfuegos is a city on the southern coast of Cuba and is located about 250 km (155 miles) from Havana. It has a population of approximately 150,000.
Cienfuegos is one of the chief seaports of Cuba; it is a center of the sugar trade, as well as coffee and tobacco. While sugarcane is the chief crop, local farmers grow coffee.
The downtown contains 6 buildings from 1819–50, 327 buildings from 1851–1900, and 1188 buildings from the 20th century and apparently there is no other place in the Caribbean which contains such a remarkable number of neoclassical structures.
In 2005, UNESCO inscribed the Urban Historic Centre of Cienfuegos on the World Heritage List.
On arrival into Cienfuegos we booked into our accommodation then went on a walking tour of the city. The main points of interest included:-
After the tour finished we had a late lunch then returned to the hotel to relax as it was too hot to be anywhere else.
In the evening we dined at a very local restaurant that served cheap Cuban food (beans, rice, chicken, pork, plantain etc) and where very few tourists are seen in.
27th March
At 9.30 this morning we left Camaguey by minibus to travel to Trinidad, a journey of approximately 5 hours. However on the outskirts of Camaguey Romey took us to a “Gaudi” style home, which is believed to have been owned by a man who once worked for Gaudi in Barcelona as it has very similar architecture to Gaudi’s buildings.
After leaving the “Gaudi” house we travelled about 20 minutes to Romey’s farm where we had a short break. There we walked around his small farm and were shown the piggery where two sows had given birth to 17 piglets each the night before and the hens which are used for breeding.
We arrived at our casa particulars around 3.00 p.m. and half an hour later headed out on a short orientation walk around what is said to be ‘the crown jewel of Cuba’s colonial cities’, Trinidad.
Trinidad is a town in the province of Sancti Spíritus, central Cuba. It was founded on December 23, 1514 by Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar.
In the 1800’s French refugees fleeing a slave revolt in Haiti landed here en masse and brought with them sugar cane cultivation. The new residents settled and farmed in the Valle de Los Ingenios and as a result vast wealth flowed into the local economy from sugar cane cultivation (the area produced 1/3 of the country’s sugar at one point). The sugar boom was terminated by two wars of independence however the wealth generated by the industry remains visible in the town’s once grand mansions, colourful pastel public buildings, elaborate wrought iron grill work and cobble stoned streets.
Trinidad is considered to be one of the best preserved cities in the Caribbean.
Together with the nearby Valle de los Ingenios, Trinidad has been one of UNESCOs World Heritage sites since 1988. The valley has around 70 long-standing sugar mills which are a reminder of the importance of sugar to the Cuban economy over the centuries.
In Trinidad all roads lead to Plaza Mayor, the town’s main square located at the heart of the casco historico and this was one of the first stops on our orientation walk.
There are 4 impressive buildings that surround Plaza Mayor......Palacio Brunet, a two story building dating back to 1741 and housing the Museo Romantico, Museo de Arquitectura Colonial, once the residence of the wealthy Iznaga family and Museo de la Lucha Contra Los Bandidos (Museum of the Fight Against Outlaws), once a convent but all that remains now are the tower and church.
After about an hour of walking around the historic centre we all decided it was far too hot to continue so returned to our casa particulares for a rest before dinner.
In the evening we went to Disco Ayala......a disco in a cave that once was once used as a wartime hospital, where we danced to Cuban music.
28th March
This morning Romey, Rachel, Colin and I visited the Trinidad National Park while Clare & Susy had a morning in town exploring the handicraft market.
From the National Park entrance the four of us walked an hour through pretty forest to Salto Javiro, a beautiful secluded waterfall in the foot hills of the Sierra Escambray. Enroute we spotted a variety of native birds, crossed some rocky terrain and several foot bridges before arriving at the natural deep pool of the waterfall where we swam for half an hour.
Around midday we returned to the park entrance where we caught a taxi to Playa Ancon to meet up with Susy & Clare.
Playa Ancon is a 4 km long beach with sugary white sand, aqua blue waters fringed with palm trees. It is touted as being the finest arc of sand of Cuba’s south coast and so it was here that we spent the afternoon swimming, reading, sleeping and enjoying the sunny rays from the Cuban sun.
In the evening we moved to a more secluded part of Playa Ancon where Romey had organised for our casa particulares to deliver a freshly cooked fish meal to us while sitting around a bonfire, listening to our very own Cuban band play their repertoire of songs and watching the sun set.
When we returned to our accommodation (in a 1950’s Chevy) we all agreed that it had been an absolutely unforgettable, fabulous day.
29th March
It was a real treat to be able to sit on the rooftop of our casa particulares this morning and have breakfast, especially as the weather was so beautiful.
Mid morning Colin and I visited the internet cafe to clear emails and just check that all was well at home.
Late morning our group headed out to the seaside village of La Boca where we meet a guide to take us snorkeling.
We swam about 30 metres offshore and were able to see a great variety of fish in the crystal clear conditions. After about 45 minutes we returned to shore for a spot of reading and relaxation however after a short rest Claire was back in the water to do an 8 metre dive.
We returned to Trinidad early afternoon and decided to spend the rest of the day chilling as it was so very hot.
For dinner this evening we dined at a newly opened restaurant called....... The interior of this restaurant was amazing with its old crystal chandeliers, elaborate candelabras, antique Cuban furniture and quirky decorations throughout.
30th March
It was with much regret that we farewelled Trinidad, loaded our bags into the minivan and headed along the scenic Caribbean coast to Cienfuegas, affectionately known as “the Pearl of the South”.
Cienfuegos is a city on the southern coast of Cuba and is located about 250 km (155 miles) from Havana. It has a population of approximately 150,000.
Cienfuegos is one of the chief seaports of Cuba; it is a center of the sugar trade, as well as coffee and tobacco. While sugarcane is the chief crop, local farmers grow coffee.
The downtown contains 6 buildings from 1819–50, 327 buildings from 1851–1900, and 1188 buildings from the 20th century and apparently there is no other place in the Caribbean which contains such a remarkable number of neoclassical structures.
In 2005, UNESCO inscribed the Urban Historic Centre of Cienfuegos on the World Heritage List.
On arrival into Cienfuegos we booked into our accommodation then went on a walking tour of the city. The main points of interest included:-
- Arco de Triunfo – built in 1902 it is the only Arco de Triunfo in Cuba and dedicated to Cuban independence.
- Cathedral de la Purisma Concepcion - cathedral with stained glass work, built 1819 it is considered a national monument.
- Palacio de Gobierno – the provincial government building.
- Palacio de Valle - built 1913-1917 in neo-gothic style.
- Parque José Martí - park in Plaza de Armas
- Benny Moré statue - Cuban singer.
- Cristóbal Torriente’s home - Cuban born Hall of fame Baseball player.
Our walk continued down the longest avenue of its style in Cuba, Paeso del Prado to the Cienfuegos Yacht Club where we found some shade to sit in out of the blazing hot sun and to have a long cold drink.
In the evening we ate at a restaurant close to our accommodation.
31st March
This morning we travelled by private van from Cienfuegos to Havana. Enroute we stopped at Playa Giron which is nestled on the eastern side of the infamous Bichia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs). It was here that the Cold War almost got hot.....where a shoddily planned comedy of errors occurred that made a laughing stock out of the Kennedy administration and elevated Fidel Castro into the role of unassailable national hero.
In April 1961 a large group of US CIA trained Cuban exiles made a ‘surprise’ attack Castro’s Cuban army by landing at the Bay of Pigs. However Castro’s Cuban army had been forewarned about the invasion and as a result were ready for the CIA....out of the forces that landed 114 were killed in skirmishes and a further 1189 were captures. The consequences of this were far outreaching. ‘Socialism of death’ a defiant Castro proclaimed at a funeral service for seven Cuban ‘martyrs’ on April 16th 1961. The revolution had swung irrevocably toward the Soviet Union.
From the Bay of Pigs we continued onto Cueva de los Feces (Cave of Fishes), a flooded tectonic fault about 70m deep and brightly coloured tropical fish swimming around. Here we spent an hour or so snorkelling with the fish, swimming and enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
Early afternoon we continued on the road to Havana, arriving mid afternoon.
Late afternoon we headed into Old Havana for a casual walking tour of the area. Highlights of this tour included:-
In the evening we ate at a restaurant close to our accommodation.
31st March
This morning we travelled by private van from Cienfuegos to Havana. Enroute we stopped at Playa Giron which is nestled on the eastern side of the infamous Bichia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs). It was here that the Cold War almost got hot.....where a shoddily planned comedy of errors occurred that made a laughing stock out of the Kennedy administration and elevated Fidel Castro into the role of unassailable national hero.
In April 1961 a large group of US CIA trained Cuban exiles made a ‘surprise’ attack Castro’s Cuban army by landing at the Bay of Pigs. However Castro’s Cuban army had been forewarned about the invasion and as a result were ready for the CIA....out of the forces that landed 114 were killed in skirmishes and a further 1189 were captures. The consequences of this were far outreaching. ‘Socialism of death’ a defiant Castro proclaimed at a funeral service for seven Cuban ‘martyrs’ on April 16th 1961. The revolution had swung irrevocably toward the Soviet Union.
From the Bay of Pigs we continued onto Cueva de los Feces (Cave of Fishes), a flooded tectonic fault about 70m deep and brightly coloured tropical fish swimming around. Here we spent an hour or so snorkelling with the fish, swimming and enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
Early afternoon we continued on the road to Havana, arriving mid afternoon.
Late afternoon we headed into Old Havana for a casual walking tour of the area. Highlights of this tour included:-
- La Bodeguita del Medio – Ernest Hemmingway’s favourite watering hole and where many famous visitors to Cuba have frequented e.g. Fidel Castro, Harry Belafonte, Nat King Cole.
- Hotel Ambos Mundos – the hotel where Hemmingway stayed while writing ‘For Whom the Bells Told’.
- Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco – the church where most aristocratic families of the times were buried in the crypt.
Tonight we ate paella at a Spanish restaurant and ended the evening by having a drink at La Bodeguita del Medio.
1st April
This was our Intrepid group’s last full day in Havana and of the ‘Rum & Rumba’ trip so mid morning Colin and I caught the Hop On Hop Off bus and headed into Old Havana.
We spent several hours wandering around the historic part of the old town before finding a cafe to sit in and enjoy a cold drink and sandwich. By mid afternoon we had had enough of the tourist crowds so boarded the Hop On Hop Off and took the inner city circle route back to our hotel, a distance of 23kms.
During the ride we passed through many suburbs, prestigious residential streets, and tough working class housing schemes and grand looking hotels with luxurious facilities. The bus also passed by Neocropolis Cristobal Colon....the cemetery.
The cemetery was declared a national monument in 1987. It consists of 56 hectares and is one of Latin America’s most fascinating cemeteries, renowned for its striking religious iconography and elaborate marble statues.
Early evening Colin and I met Romey, Rachel, Clare & Susy in the hotel foyer then headed back into Old Havana to have a last meal and evening together.
At midnight we all said our goodbyes with a promise to keep in contact via email.
Cuba certainly is a fascinating country, a dynamic mix of music, history and revolutionary politics that at times seems to have had the life sucked out of it by 50 years of austere, unbending socialism. However progress is slowly changing and economic buoyancy is beginning to appear as there is greater choice of consumer goods in the city’s shops and Cubans are becoming better off because of progressive reforms i.e. the Cuban government passed a law that allowed its citizens access to all tourist hotels, they are legally allowed to own cell phones, buy various electronic goods and own larger tracts of land in private farms.
2nd & 3rdApril
After spending a very relaxing morning having breakfast then packing our bags we caught a taxi out to Hotel Tropicoco at Playas Del Este. The hotel is situated 25 kms from Havana and along part of a 20 km beautiful tropical beach coastline.
We spent the afternoon and next day reading, relaxing and swimming in the warm waters of the Caribbean.
4th April
Late morning we said goodbye to Cuba as we caught a flight from Jose Marti airport to Mexico City where we had a five hour stopover before continuing on to Los Angeles. On arrival at the airport around 11.30 pm we caught a shuttle to the Travel Lodge at LAX where we have booked in to stay for two nights.
1st April
This was our Intrepid group’s last full day in Havana and of the ‘Rum & Rumba’ trip so mid morning Colin and I caught the Hop On Hop Off bus and headed into Old Havana.
We spent several hours wandering around the historic part of the old town before finding a cafe to sit in and enjoy a cold drink and sandwich. By mid afternoon we had had enough of the tourist crowds so boarded the Hop On Hop Off and took the inner city circle route back to our hotel, a distance of 23kms.
During the ride we passed through many suburbs, prestigious residential streets, and tough working class housing schemes and grand looking hotels with luxurious facilities. The bus also passed by Neocropolis Cristobal Colon....the cemetery.
The cemetery was declared a national monument in 1987. It consists of 56 hectares and is one of Latin America’s most fascinating cemeteries, renowned for its striking religious iconography and elaborate marble statues.
Early evening Colin and I met Romey, Rachel, Clare & Susy in the hotel foyer then headed back into Old Havana to have a last meal and evening together.
At midnight we all said our goodbyes with a promise to keep in contact via email.
Cuba certainly is a fascinating country, a dynamic mix of music, history and revolutionary politics that at times seems to have had the life sucked out of it by 50 years of austere, unbending socialism. However progress is slowly changing and economic buoyancy is beginning to appear as there is greater choice of consumer goods in the city’s shops and Cubans are becoming better off because of progressive reforms i.e. the Cuban government passed a law that allowed its citizens access to all tourist hotels, they are legally allowed to own cell phones, buy various electronic goods and own larger tracts of land in private farms.
2nd & 3rdApril
After spending a very relaxing morning having breakfast then packing our bags we caught a taxi out to Hotel Tropicoco at Playas Del Este. The hotel is situated 25 kms from Havana and along part of a 20 km beautiful tropical beach coastline.
We spent the afternoon and next day reading, relaxing and swimming in the warm waters of the Caribbean.
4th April
Late morning we said goodbye to Cuba as we caught a flight from Jose Marti airport to Mexico City where we had a five hour stopover before continuing on to Los Angeles. On arrival at the airport around 11.30 pm we caught a shuttle to the Travel Lodge at LAX where we have booked in to stay for two nights.
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