17th April
This morning we were up and had breakfast by 6.30 a.m., packed and walking down to the Hesperia Hotel by 7.10 a.m. where we met 90% of the crew that are to be our fellow travellers for the next six months.
This morning we were up and had breakfast by 6.30 a.m., packed and walking down to the Hesperia Hotel by 7.10 a.m. where we met 90% of the crew that are to be our fellow travellers for the next six months.
Once we had all introduced ourselves we then began loading our packs, sleeping bags and bed rolls into bus, which transported us to Dover where we met Pete & Kirsten, the owners of Odyssey Overland and Calypso, our new home for the next 4 months.
On arrival we transferred all our gear to Calypso, went through Customs then around mid day boarded the boat to Calais. From Calais we travelled through France into Belgium to a campsite at Tourani, 10 kms from the French border.
Tournai is one of begium’s oldest cities and is dominated by the five towers of its austere 12th century cathedral and the more ornate 13th century befry.
The group spent a quiet night mucking in to set up camp, cook dinner and getting to know one another.
Distance travelled:-145kms
18th April
After a rather chilly first night in our tent (The Priory) we woke to our first morning on foreign soil, Belgium.
At 8.00 a.m we departed the camp site bound for Cologne, the capital of the province of Germania and the Dom for which is famous for.
After setting up camp the group set off on the 5 km walk along the edge of the Rhine river into the centre of the old town.
Our first photo stop was at the Chocolate Museum followed by the beautiful St Martin’s Church & the cathedral.
The building of Cologne’s cathedral began in 1248, stopped in 1560, started again in 1842 and was entered on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Behind the high altar of the Dom, Magi’s shrine is believed to contain the remains of the Three Wise Men. The cathedral spires rise to 157m and the south tower offers stunning views of the city. Most of the Odyssey group climbed the 509 stairs to the top of the cathedral tower to take photos and appreciate the outlook.
In the evening we ate traditional fare at Sion Brauhaus, one of the many beer halls.
Karin Lange who hails from Cologne and was one of our fellow travelers from the Intrepid East African trip joined us at the brauhaus then took Colin and I on a little mini tour of the old town and to see the lights of the city before delivering us back to the campsite around 10.00 p.m.
Distance travelled:-295kms
19th April
We woke to a cool but beautiful, cloudless morning in Cologne so it was easy to get uo, shower, dismantle “The Priory”, eat breakfast and pack the truck before 9.00 a.m.
Today we headed for Bamberg, a journey of about 8 hours including stops.
Bamberg is in northern Bavaria and is touted as being an untouched monument to the Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich II, who conceived it.
The truck pulled into the Insel Camping ground at Bug (10 mins from Bamberg) around4.30 pm.
After setting up our tents we all went to the bar to have a drink before starting our evening chores.
The evening was spent sitting around the camp chatting, clearing emails and updating diaries.
Distance travelled:-399kms
20th April
At 10.00 am this morning Karin and Rainer Epp collected Colin and I from our campsite and drove us into Bamberg, the 12th monument in Germany to be inscribed on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.
Bamberg is one of the few cities in Germany that was not destroyed by World War II bombings because of a nearby artillery factory that prevented planes from getting near to Bamberg.
In the Middle Ages, Bamberg was a powerful ecclesiastical center. Initially, it was two towns divided by the river: one was the ecclesiastical town of the prince – bishopric, and the other was the secular town of the burghers. Nowadays, Bamberg is known as “a beer drinker’s Eden” because there are 9 Breweries with lots of different kinds of beer, being the most famous the “smoked beer”.
Bamberg is also famous for its architecture, with styles ranging from Romanesque to Gothic, Renaissance to Baroque.
Our first stop with Karin & Rainer was at the Information Centre where we collected a PDA audio visual to do a self guided tour to explore the town on foot.
Highlights of the tour included:-
- Geyerswort Castle – Prince Bishop’s town castle erected from 1585 – 1587.
- Old Town Hall – built in the middle of the 14th century and rebuilt by the Bamberg citizens after a fire in 1440. It’s famous for its wonderful architecture and impressive frescoes.
- Gruner Markt (Green Market) – where the fruit and vegetable market is held during the week.
- Maximiliansplatz – the largest square in the town centre of Bamberg and dominated by the Baroguq front of the present day town hall.
- Little Venice – former fishermen’s houses that are medieval half timbered style buildings with balcony’s and tiny gardens on the bank of the River Regnitz.
- Cathedral (Dom) – the imperial cathedral of St Peter and St George finished in 1237 and shows both late Romanesque and early Gothic elements. The Bamberger Reiter, the tomb of Henrich II and Kunigunde, the papal tomb of Clemens II are among the most important sights in the cathedral.
- The Old Court – former imperial and bishop’s palace.
- New Residence Rose Garden – offers a wonderful view over the centre of the town and of St Michael.
Early afternoon we drove to Altenburg Castle, which was initially used as a place of refuge and later as the bshop’s residence. There Karin, Rainer, Colin and I had a delicious lunch while appreciating the panoramic views over Bamberg and the surrounding countryside.
Mid afternoon the four of us took a boat cruise down the River Regnitz and along the Danube canal.
We returned to camp late afternoon and sadly said goodbye to the Epps, promising to keep on touch.
The evening was spent downloading and naming photos, updating the diary then having dinner.
21st April
Today we left camp Insel, farewelled Bamberg and made our way to the Triocamp ground on the outskirts of Prague, a distance of 375 kms.
Prague is the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic. It has an estimated population of over 2.3 million and has been a political, cultural and economic centre of Europe and particularly central Europe for over 1,200 years of its existence.
Since 1992 the extensive historic centre of Prague has been included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites and it is classified as a global city.
The modern economy of Prague is largely service and export based and in a 2010 survey the city was named the best city in East Europe for business.
Prague is home to a number of famous cultural attractions, many of which survived the violence and destruction of 20th century Europe.
After setting up camp and having dinner half of the group spent the evening relaxing in camp while the other took the bus into Prague for a night on the town.
Distance travelled:-375kms
22nd April – Good Friday
A very relaxed start to the day this morning as we ate breakfast had coffee and tried to clear emails via the slow Wi Fi!!!
Mid morning eight of us caught the bus, followed by the tram into Prague. From the tram stop we quickly made our way into the Old Town Square to the clock tower to watch the mechanical apostles of the 15th century astronomical clock entertain us at 12.00 pm.
As Colin and I have been to Prague before we decided to just walk and enjoy the festive Easter celebrations. While walking we both commented on how many of the buildings had been lovingly restored since our last visit in 2007.
Highlights of the day included:-
- Walking through the Old Town and visiting all the Easter Stalls laden with handmade decorative Easter eggs, Prague souvenirs, local food and produce.
- Watching an Easter street parade.
- Taking a walk along the river and wandering amongst artists working and selling their art.
Late afternoon we returned to the campsite for dinner and an early night.
23rd April
Just as the sun was coming up we too were having an early start because our destination today was Budapest, the capital of Hungary and where a fifth of Hungary’s population resides.
The story of Budapest begins in 1873 when hilly residential Buda merged with flat industrial Pest.....but Budapest is much older than that. The Romans built the town of Aquineum here and layer upon layer of history blankets Buda’s castle district.
Calypso pulled up outside the shady, overcrowded Zugligeti Niche Camping grounds, north of the city, late afternoon after travelling 10 hours and covering 543 kms.
By 8.00 pm tents had been erected, bags unpacked and dinner cooked so it wasn’t surprising that shortly afterward we all headed to bed for an early night’s sleep.
Distance travelled:-543 kms
24th April – Easter Sunday
It’s Easter Sunday morning in Budapest and while we watched many of the Italian campers head off to church we sat around the breakfast table eating poached eggs on toast and a special treat of Easter eggs.
Mid morning the Calypso travellers caught bus 219 into the centre of the Pest side of Budapest.
Our first visit was to the “Shoes on the Danube”, a memorial on the Danube River that honours the Jews who fell victim to fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during World War II.
As Colin and I have previously spent time in Budapest on an Intrepid trip we decided to walk Margart Island while the rest of the group took the Hop On Hop Off sightseeing bus of Budapest.
Margart Island consists of 225 acres and is mainly a landscape park and popular recreational area.
From Margate Island we walked along the Danube embankment, passed the neo Gothic Parliament Building to Gellert Hotel and Spa Baths.
Gellert Hotel is a complex that was built between 1912 and 1918, is art nouveau style and famous for its main hall with gallery and glass roof. The complex includes thermal baths, saunas, plunge pools and swimming pools.
After a two hour soak in the thermal bath Colin and I dragged ourselves away and walked to St Stephen’s Basilica to meet up with the rest of our group and return to camp.
The evening was spent naming photos and celebrating Jen’s 25th birthday.
25th April – ANZAC Day
Pitter, patter, pitter, patter......we woke to the sound of rain on our tent roof!!!!! However by the time we had showered and packed our tent bags the rain had stopped and we were able to eat our breakfast in dryish conditions.
Our departure from camp today was at 8.30 am as we had a 12 hour drive to Turda Gorge, a journey of 466 kms.
Turda Gorge is a protected natural reserve located along a valley at a distance of 6 kms west of Turda Hasdat. The gorge occupies an area of 324 hectares and was formed by erosion of the Jurassic limestone rock by the river Hasdat.
Turda Gorge offers a rare and wild landscape with steep and high cliffs, sharp rise towers of stone, stone gullies, scree etc. It contains over 1000 species of plants and animals representing some rare items like wild garlic, eagle rock etc.
In total the gorge has about 60 unknown caves, niches and archways (remains of collapsed caves).
It is one of the best mountaineering and climbing areas in Romania.......there are about 250 climbing routes and escalating.
Calypso rolled into the campsite at Turda Gorge around 7.30 pm and promptly erected the tents and sorted our tent gear before having dinner.
The night in Turda Gorge was very cold so most of the evening was spent sitting in the truck, chatting, singing and listening to music.
Distance travelled: - 466kms
26th April
The sun slowly crept over the hill into the gorge campsite around 8.00 am so we were fortunate to be able to sit in the sun and eat breakfast.
At 9.00 am a group of 14 plus two guides headed into Turda Gorge.
We walked an hour before climbing into a cave that was used as a fortified hiding place in the 17th century when the Turks invaded Romanian. On the sheer face of the exterior of the cave face, our guide gave us a demonstration of his rock climbing skills, which was then followed by Denis and new rock climbing guru Paul.
The group continued walking along the gorge then steadily climbed to a height of 741 metres where we stopped for lunch and to appreciate the view of the surrounding valleys and small villages.
After lunch we continued climbing, visiting another cave where evidence has been found of people living there 120,000 years ago. From this point we also had spectacular views of Turda township itself and farmland.
We returned to the campsite mid afternoon and spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out around the camp site to enjoy the peace and quiet while updating my diary.
27th April
This morning we left peaceful Turda Gorge bound for Sighisoara, Romania.
Sighisoara is a city and municipality on the Tamava Mare River in Mures County. It is located in the historic region of Transylvania with a population of around 35,000 – 40,000 and is a popular tourist destination.
It is said that Sighisoara is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, this perfectly intact 16th century gem with nine towers, cobbled streets, burgher houses and ornate churches rivals the historic streets of Old Prague or Vienna for atmospheric magic.
Sighisoara is also the birthplace of Vlad Dracula, also known as Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler), ruler of the province of Walachia from 1456 to 1462. It was he who inspired Bram Stoker's fictional creation, Count Dracula.
After unpacking our bags from the truck we headed to our rooms at Hotel Rex to take a shower before walking into the centre of the town.
Highlights of the walk included:-
- 14th century 64m high clock tower. This tower controlled the main gate of the half-mile-long defensive wall and stored the city's treasures.
- Church on the Hill with its 500-year-old frescoes was initially a Catholic church. It became the main church of the Saxon inhabitants of Sighisoara, who had shifted from Roman Catholicism to Lutheranism after the 1547 Reform.
- Citadel Square where once upon a time only goldsmiths, tailors, carpenters and tinsmiths were allowed to have their guilds and workshops. Public executions and witch trials were also held here.
- Scholars' Stairs - built in 1642, the covered stair-passage was meant to facilitate and protect schoolchildren and churchgoers on their climb to the school and church during wintertime. Originally, the stairs had 300 steps, but after 1849, their number was reduced to 175.
- Dracul House - located in the Citadel Square, close to the Clock Tower. This ocher-colored house is the place where Vlad Tepes, the inspiration for Bram Stoker's famous Dracula, was born in 1431 and lived with his father, Vlad Dracul, until 1435 when they moved to Targoviste.
We concluded the day with a traditional Romanian meal at the Rustic Restaurant.
Distance travelled:-142 kms
Calypso and its passengers departed the Rex Hotel, Sighisoara shortly after 7.30 am this morning bound for Bucharest.
Late morning we stopped in Sinaia at Peles Castle, 44kms from Brasnov, which is considered by some as one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe.
Peles Castle was started in 1873 and inaugurated in 1883. It is made of wood, stone, bricks & marble and comprises more than 160 rooms. Peles Castle is surrounded by seven terraces, decorated with statues, ornamental vases and Carara marble. It was the final resting place for several Romanian monarchs including King Carol I who died there in 1914......he used the castle as his summer residence.
After a tour of the castle grounds we had lunch before continuing on to our final destination at Camp Casa Alba, Bucharest.
Bucharest is the capital city, cultural, industrial and financial centre of Romania. It is the largest city in Romania and was first mentioned in documents as early as 1459.
Legend has it that the city of Bucharest was founded on the banks of the Dambourla River by a shepherd named Bucur, whose name literally means joy. His flute playing reportedly dazzled the people and his hearty wine from nearby vineyards endeared him to the local traders, who gave his name to the place.
The truck pulled into camp around 4.30 pm and with the threat of rain approaching the group quickly unloaded and erected tents, set up the kitchen and dispersed bags amongst their owners.
As I was on cook group I made fudge cake for dessert then helped the other four in the group prepare and cook coq au vin chicken for dinner.
Distance travelled:-278 kms
29th April
This morning the group caught taxis into Budapest. Some were dropped off at a traditional Romania village complex on the outskirts of town while Colin and I along with several others stopped at Piata Victoriei to walk down Calea Victoriei, Bucharest’s oldest and most charming street that was initially paved with oak beams.
Along Calea Victoriei we passed the National Museum and Museum of Art. From here we made a detour to Boulevard Magheru and found a nice cafe with a big flat screen TV and free Wi Fi where we could watch the royal wedding and clear our emails......and just as well we did!!!
One of our emails was from Quinovic advising us that after the recent heavy rain that Hawkes Bay had experienced part of Sugar Loaf Hill had slid into our backyard at Pukekura Place depositing mud on the lawn and gardens and destroying the back fence!!!!!
After watching the marriage between William and Kate Sally, Richard, Andrea, Zoe, Susan, Colin and I continued on our own walking tour of the city discovering:-
In the evening we had dinner at Vatra Restaurant, a restaurant that is decorated with original Transylvanian decorations dating back to 1920 and serves traditional Romanian food.
We returned to camp around 8.00 pm and had an early night.
30th April
This morning we not only said “goodbye” to our campsite in Bucharest but e farewelled Romania and crossed over the border into Bulgaria heading for Camping Veliko Tarnovo at Dragizhevo, which is situated in the relaxed valley of Televets between two working rural villages with rich histories and strong cultural traditions.
On arrival into camp we promptly unloaded the usual gear then erected our tents. Apparently we had been closely watched while doing this as the owners of the camp later announced that Colin and I had been awarded a certificate for erecting ours in the quickest time...... in 4 minutes.
Mid afternoon Colin, Sally and I walked into the village of Dragizhevo, 1km away from the camp. We did enjoy breathing in the country air, walking in the sunshine and appreciating the views from the hilltops.
Before dinner the local mayor came along to the camp to welcome us to Bulgaria, in particular the small village of Dragizhevo. He introduced a group of local women who were dressed in traditional costume and who spent half an hour entertaining us with their singing.
Distance travelled:-223 kms
28th April
Calypso and its passengers departed the Rex Hotel, Sighisoara shortly after 7.30 am this morning bound for Bucharest.
Late morning we stopped in Sinaia at Peles Castle, 44kms from Brasnov, which is considered by some as one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe.
Peles Castle was started in 1873 and inaugurated in 1883. It is made of wood, stone, bricks & marble and comprises more than 160 rooms. Peles Castle is surrounded by seven terraces, decorated with statues, ornamental vases and Carara marble. It was the final resting place for several Romanian monarchs including King Carol I who died there in 1914......he used the castle as his summer residence.
After a tour of the castle grounds we had lunch before continuing on to our final destination at Camp Casa Alba, Bucharest.
Bucharest is the capital city, cultural, industrial and financial centre of Romania. It is the largest city in Romania and was first mentioned in documents as early as 1459.
Legend has it that the city of Bucharest was founded on the banks of the Dambourla River by a shepherd named Bucur, whose name literally means joy. His flute playing reportedly dazzled the people and his hearty wine from nearby vineyards endeared him to the local traders, who gave his name to the place.
The truck pulled into camp around 4.30 pm and with the threat of rain approaching the group quickly unloaded and erected tents, set up the kitchen and dispersed bags amongst their owners.
As I was on cook group I made fudge cake for dessert then helped the other four in the group prepare and cook coq au vin chicken for dinner.
Distance travelled:-278 kms
29th April
This morning the group caught taxis into Budapest. Some were dropped off at a traditional Romania village complex on the outskirts of town while Colin and I along with several others stopped at Piata Victoriei to walk down Calea Victoriei, Bucharest’s oldest and most charming street that was initially paved with oak beams.
Along Calea Victoriei we passed the National Museum and Museum of Art. From here we made a detour to Boulevard Magheru and found a nice cafe with a big flat screen TV and free Wi Fi where we could watch the royal wedding and clear our emails......and just as well we did!!!
One of our emails was from Quinovic advising us that after the recent heavy rain that Hawkes Bay had experienced part of Sugar Loaf Hill had slid into our backyard at Pukekura Place depositing mud on the lawn and gardens and destroying the back fence!!!!!
After watching the marriage between William and Kate Sally, Richard, Andrea, Zoe, Susan, Colin and I continued on our own walking tour of the city discovering:-
- Palace of Parliament – the world’s second largest administrative building after the US Pentagon. It was built in 1984, comprises 12 storeys, 3100 rooms and covers 330,000 square metres.
- Piata Revolution – the scene of Ceausescu’s infamous last speech of 21st December 1989 and where sensing irreparable doom and cries of “down with Ceausescu’s” he escaped via helicopter while the 80,000 plus crowd were riddled with bullets and many of them died.
- Stradi Lipscani – an old merchant street that is now a newly cobbled street with smart shops, restaurants and cafes.
- The Arch de Triumph – completed in deva granite in 1936 the arch stands 85 ft high and an internal staircase to the top with panoramic views of the city.
- Biserica Stavropoleaus – this church was completed in 1724 and is easily the city’s most beautiful because of its frescoes, icons and peaceful cloister garden.
In the evening we had dinner at Vatra Restaurant, a restaurant that is decorated with original Transylvanian decorations dating back to 1920 and serves traditional Romanian food.
We returned to camp around 8.00 pm and had an early night.
30th April
This morning we not only said “goodbye” to our campsite in Bucharest but e farewelled Romania and crossed over the border into Bulgaria heading for Camping Veliko Tarnovo at Dragizhevo, which is situated in the relaxed valley of Televets between two working rural villages with rich histories and strong cultural traditions.
On arrival into camp we promptly unloaded the usual gear then erected our tents. Apparently we had been closely watched while doing this as the owners of the camp later announced that Colin and I had been awarded a certificate for erecting ours in the quickest time...... in 4 minutes.
Mid afternoon Colin, Sally and I walked into the village of Dragizhevo, 1km away from the camp. We did enjoy breathing in the country air, walking in the sunshine and appreciating the views from the hilltops.
Before dinner the local mayor came along to the camp to welcome us to Bulgaria, in particular the small village of Dragizhevo. He introduced a group of local women who were dressed in traditional costume and who spent half an hour entertaining us with their singing.
Distance travelled:-223 kms
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