9th May
I woke around 6.15 am this morning so ventured outside and was astounded to see a wonderful array of coloured balloons filling the sky over Goreme then remembered that 17 of our group had gone ballooning at 4.30 am this morning and would be up in one of these balloons.
At 9.00 am we boarded a bus to tour the following areas of the Cappadocia region:-
- Pigeon Valley – this area refers to the thousands of pigeon houses that have been carved into the soft tufa in the valley near Goreme since ancient times. Although they can be found throughout Cappadocia, they are especially plentiful in this valley which must have one of the greatest collections of pigeon lofts in the world. They were carved wherever space allowed including abandoned caves and the walls of collapsed churches. In Cappadocia, pigeons have long been a source of food and fertilizer. The advent of chemical fertilizers has reduced the use of pigeon fertilizer however; some farmers still maintain their lofts because they insist that the reputation of Cappadocia fruits as the sweetest and most succulent in Turkey is entirely due to the pigeons' droppings.
- Derinkuyu Underground City - There are 36 underground cities in Cappadocia and Derinkuyu is the largest excavated underground city in Turkey. The complex first built by the Phrygians in the 8th–7th centuries B.C according to the Turkish Department of Culture has a total of 11 floors, though many floors have not been excavated. It has an area of 2,000 square feet, with a possible total area of 7,000 square feet (650 m2). Each floor could be closed off separately. The city was connected with other underground cities through miles of long tunnels. It is unlikely that the underground cities were ever intended for permanent dwelling, or even long stays, but they were clearly built to withstand attack and could support large numbers of people and their domestic animals, for extended periods of time.
- Cavusin - one of the oldest settlements in the area and is situated 2km from Goreme. Christian missionaries and communities once lived in the old Cavusin valley, now in ruins mainly because the area has been plagued by rock falls. At Cavusin you are able to visit the Church of John the Baptist which is said to date back from the 5th century with paintings from the 6th, 7th and 8th centuries.
- Pasabaglari – At Pasabaglari many of the fairy chimneys are only partially divided, showing us the continuous erosion process. There is a small minaret transformed from a church belfry indicating that this place was inhabited by Moslems after the Christians. This valley is also noted for the many caves in the fairy used by hermits for their retreats.
- Devrent Valley – known as Imagination Valley and also Pink Valley does not have cave churches like the other valleys of Cappadocia or Roman Castles or Roman tombs as it was never inhabited however what makes it famous are small fairy chimneys that form a lunar landscape or moonscape by their strange look. The valley also has many animal shaped rocks e.g. snakes, camels, seals, dolphins etc. If you let your imagination run free you will find many others.
Mid afternoon we finished the tour and were taken back to the camping ground so were able to enjoy some free time before dinner.
Lights were out relatively early at camp after the early start to the day.
10th May
It was a lazy start to the morning with a sleep in and late breakfast followed by washing, updating the diary and downloading and naming photos from the previous day.
At 1.00 pm we farewelled Kaya Camping and boarded the truck bound for a camp anywhere along that way that would be secure for Calypso to park and us to pitch our tents.
After two hours of travelling CJ announced that we would be stopping at a “metal pit” high above a main road on the outskirts of Geremek, not exactly the most picturesque spot but one that would give us shelter and privacy from passing traffic.
Most of the afternoon was spent setting up camp and learning of the travel plans for the next few days. However late afternoon we all watched an approaching storm with concern.....loud claps of thunder and fork lightning so we all ensured that our tents were secure and clothing and bedding were in a dry place. Fortunately the storm circled us so we had no more than ten drops of rain, which made eating dinner more pleasurable.
CJ & Jim lit a fire so we spent the evening sitting around that and chatting before we headed off to bed.
Distance travelled:-237kms
11th May
We were woken at 6.00 am this morning with loud claps of thunder and on opening the tent flap was greeted by a very dark looking sky and a few drops of rain. With the prospect of a storm heading our way we quickly dismantled the tent and packed it away along with our bags but by the time breakfast was served at 7.30 am the storm had passed without a drop of rain.
We moved out from the campsite at 8.30 am heading in the direction of Georgia.
Around mid day we stopped in a small town named Zara where our cook group shopped for provisions for lunch and dinner. After storing all the fresh vegetables, fruit and bread in Calypso we headed out of town for a lunch stop.
Late afternoon we pulled into our second free camp site, 9 kms from Refahye and just on 2,000 metres above sea level in Eastern Turkey and the highest camp site we have been to thus far.
Once our tents were unloaded from Calypso and our bags sorted I headed off to the kitchen to help our cook group prepare and cook dinner.
After dinner we returned to the truck to play in the Odyssey Overland quiz.......our team came second, Colin’s team came fourth.
We all headed to bed around 9.30 pm just as the thunder and lightning began!!!
Distance travelled:-324 kms
12th May
It was a surprise to wake to sun and a relatively clear blue sky this morning after a rough night of thunder and lightning.
Breakfast was at 8.30 am this morning then we were packed and on the road by 9.30 am.
Most of the day was spent travelling through flat, dry, barren areas, high rocky mountain ranges and valleys with pretty trees with our final destination of Sumela was finally reached by 4.30 pm.
Once CJ had stocked up on a few basic provisions we headed out of town to the Sumela Camping Ground, where we are basing ourselves for the next two nights.
Dinner tonight was a delicious meal of chicken stir fry cooked by Colin and his cook group.
In the evening some of the Calypso crew played cards while others sat, chatted or listened to music. Colin and I along with Sylvia, Sandra, Keith and Paul played a dice game, which was lots of fun and with plenty of laughter and loud yelling.
Distance travelled:-237 kms
13th May
We woke to a very misty, dampish morning so it was decided that after breakfast we would head into town to collect provisions for lunch and dinner today and two meals tomorrow.
After an hour in town we made a 15 km drive to Sumela’s major tourist attraction, the Sumela Monastery.
This Greek Orthodox monastery stands at the foot of a steep cliff facing the Altindere Valley in the region of Trabzon. It was founded in the year 386 AD by two priests after they discovered a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary in a cave on the mountain. The monastery is a popular place to visit not only because of its aesthetic attraction as it overlooks forests and streams below but of its cultural and religious significance.
The principal elements of the monastery complex are the Rock Church, several chapels, kitchens, student rooms, a guesthouse, a library and a sacred spring. The frescoes of the Sumela Monastery are seriously damaged as they have been moved from their original settings. The main subject of the frescoes is biblical scenes telling the story of Christ and the Virgin Mary.
We returned to the campsite early afternoon and had lunch then enjoyed an afternoon of free time.
Most of the crew was in bed by 10.00 pm as we face an early morning start with a border crossing into Georgia.
14th May
Breakfast was over by 7.30 am this morning, lunch was packed, tents and bags towed away in Calypso by 8.15 am and we departed Sumela Camp site by 8.30am bound for the Turkish/Georgian border.
After being stamped out of Turkey and into Georgia we headed for Batumi, a seaside city on the Black Sea coast and capital of Adjara.
Batumi, with its large port and commercial centre is situated 20 kms from the Turkish border in a sub tropical zone, rich in agricultural produce such as citrus fruit and tea. Industries include ship building, food processing and light manufacturing.
The city’s name comes from the location of its first settlement, on the left bank of the Bat River. With a history dating from the 1st millennium BC, Batumi was ceded by Turkey to Russia in 1878.
After booking into the hotel around mid afternoon most of us walked into the centre of Batumi to see the sights, which weren’t many anyway.
In the evening we walked to Dzveli Gemi, a traditional restaurant along the water front where we ate a variety of dishes…..all delicious and large. After eating some of us danced on the dance floor along with many of the locals.
Distance travelled:-262 kms
15th May
The truck headed out from Batumi at 9.30 am on a very wet, cold morning bound for Mestia which is located in the heart of Svanetia.
Mestia is at an altitude of 1400m and is a conglomeration of at least ten neighbourhoods with old buildings and typical Svan towers mixed in among drabber soviet era structures.
Enroute to Mestia we had a stop for lunch on the outskirts of a small town and there we were greeted by a group of about ten men who welcomed us to their part of the country. When they discovered that it was Susan’s birthday some of them disappeared for a short while then returned with wine, brandy and chocolates to celebrate her special day.......quite a fun but bizarre time was had by all.
Mid afternoon we continued on to Mestia taking a scenic route which passed through tree clad valleys, snow capped mountains and climbing over steep passed until we finally reached our destination around 10.00 pm. The journey was longer than expected due to bad road conditions, road construction, rain, mud, landslides and the truck averaging 20 km per hour.
Our homestay hosts, Nino and Tamuna Ratiani greeted us on our arrival and showed us through to the dining room where our banquet dinner was waiting. Once we had finished eating we all went to our rooms and collapsed into bed, tired from the long day on the truck.
Distance travelled:- 293 kms
16th May
It felt like luxury this morning to be able to sleep in until 9.00 pm and not feel obligated to rise early.
Feeling refreshed from a good night’s sleep and having eaten a hearty breakfast we were all ready to face the day ahead.
At 10.00 am Keti, a local guide came to collect a small group of us to take us on a walk of Mestia to explore some of its sites. Shye explained that the town contains a number of medieval monuments, churches and forts which have been included in a list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. She also said that in 1968 Mestia was granted the status of a townlet.
On our walk we visited 12th century traditional home with its well preserved ornately decorated woodwork and furnishings. Life in those days was centred around one large room, which had a fire in its centre where food was prepared and cooked. In winter all the animals lived in stalls in the same room, their warmth helping to warm the room.
The town of Mestia is dominated by stone defensive towers. These fortified buildings consist of a 20-25m high tower, an adjacent house and some other household structures encircled by a defensive wall.
The tower we climbed consisted of several levels of floors and had wonderful views of Mestia town and the surrounding countryside.
At midday Colin, Denis, Stephen, Sally returned to the town to have coffee and sample some of the local fare......Khachapuri, a dumpling stuffed with mince and herbs while and Keti, Ben Aiofe & Claire continued to walk further up the valley.
The afternoon was mostly spent washing and catching up on those usual ‘ on the road chores’.
We ate dinner at 7.00 pm and headed off to bed at 9.00 pm in preparation for another long day on the road.
17th May
It was bags out on the pavement early this morning as CJ wanted Calypso loaded by 6.45 am.
Breakfast at the homestay was at 7.00 am followed by our departure from Mestia at 7.30 am.
This morning we retraced the long five hour journey back down the Svaneti Valley to Zugdid, stopping early afternoon for lunch then a grocery shop at the local market.
At Zugdidi Andrea and Richard along with Jim and Zarzar (our guide through Georgia) left the truck bound for Tbilisi mainly because Andrea had been ill for the last three days and needed to see a doctor and Jim and Zarzar were going to sort out our visas for Uzbekistan.
Late afternoon we left Zugidi and travelled a few hours to our camp site at Nokalakevi.
Nokalakevi is the place where an important ancient Georgian city was situated. It was inhabited in the early 1st millennium BC and the remains of the original walls of a royal palace and an early Christian church can be found.
Once we had all set up our tents for the night and while I along with the rest of my cook group prepared and cooked dinner Colin went off to explore the palace ruins and church.
We were all very tired after the early start this morning so headed off to bed relatively early under the watchful eye of the local constabulary who remained on site all night.
Distance travelled:- 200 kms
18th May
At 8.30 am Calypso and crew drove out of our camp site at Nokalakevi under police escort bound for Kutaisi, Georgia’s second city with a history traced back more than 4000 years.
On arrival at Kutaisi Colin’s cook group visited the local markets for fresh food as they were on cook duty while the rest of the crew wandered around the town.
Kutaisi is built around the River Rioni. To the north of the right bank rises up an older area where the landmark 11th century Bagrati Cathedral overlooks the city but unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.
Early afternoon we headed out of Kutaisi bound for Gori to find a camp site for the night.
Gori is synonomus with just one man.....this is the town where Josif Jughashvili – later Joseph Stalin – was born and went to school.
Our final resting place for the day was at a place known as ‘cave city’, Uplistsikhe on the bank of the Mikvari River.
‘Cave city’ is one of the oldest places of settlement in the Caucasus....it was founded in the late Bronze Age around 1000 BC but developed mainly from the 6th century BC to the 1st century AD and was one of the principal political and religious centres of pre-Christian Kartli, with temples dedicated principally to the sun goddess. The city today is a 40,000 sq metre Inner City, constituting less than half of the original whole.
Once we had settled into the camp the cook group prepared and cooked dinner while the rest of us enjoyed the view of ‘cave city’ while having an evening drink and listening to the nearby swiftly flowing river.
Distance travelled:- 239 kms
19th May
This morning we left city cave campsite and made the short trip into Gori to visit the Stalin Museum. This museum is housed in an impressive 1957 building and it charts Stalin’s journey from his childhood through to his political work and revolutionary activities in the Caucasus then his death in 1953.
Stalin’s involvement with Lenn is thoroughly detailed taking us through the revolution of 1905, Stalin’s Siberian exile, the revolution of 1917, the Civil War and Lenin’s death in 1924.
On the outside of the museum we visited the tiny wood and mud brick house where Stalin’s parents rented a single room for the first four years of Stalin’s life and Stalin’s train carriage that he travelled to Yalta conference in 1945. The train apparently is bullet proof with an elegant interior that includes a bath tub and primitive air conditioning unit.
Late morning we headed out of Gori bound for Kazbegi, travelling along the Georgian Military Highway..... an ancient passage that runs from Tblisi over the Caucasus to Vladikavkaz in Russia. The road winds its way up to the highest point, the Jvari (Cross) Pass at 2300m then descends the Tergi Valley passing through several settlements to Kazbegi, the last town before the Georgian – Russian border. The scenery on the way was dramatic and the snow at least 4 ft deep in places.
We made a short stop at Ananuri to photograph the Ananuri Fortress, another example of beautiful Georgian architecture. The fortress once belonged to the Dukes of Aragvi who ruled the land from the 13th century onwards and was the scene of several battles. Within the fortress are two 17th century churches, the larger of which is the Assumption Church covered with wonderful stone carvings. Inside are some vivid 17th-18th century frescoes.
Calypso pulled into the campsite around 6.30 pm.
While cook group prepared and cooked dinner the rest of us dressed up for the “red party” later in the evening....a great night was had by all.
Distance travelled:-202 kms
20th May
We woke at 8.30 am this morning to sunshine so after breakfast we headed off up the mountain to the Tsminda Sameba Church......a 1 ½ hour panoramic walk from 1700m to 2200 m.
This 14th century Holy Trinity Church has been built on a lofty, isolated perch and is made of beautifully weathered stone with a separate bell tower and decorated with some intriguing carvings.
Colin and I returned to the camp early afternoon and just in time as the rain hit the camp site 15 minutes later.
In the afternoon some of our crew went into Kazbegi while others stayed back at the truck to catch up on dairies, downloading and naming photos etc.
This evening we had dinner then headed to bed reasonably early as CJ told us we were leaving the camp around 8.00 am bound for Tblisi.
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